Quest to the World's Great Mountains
Doug Scott CBE
President, The Alpine Club
Monday, 11 July 2005
The Hong Kong Fooll Club, Causeway Bay
Drinks Reception with Canapes 6.30 pm
Lecture 7.30 pm We are delighted to welcome to Hong Kong the great mountaineer Doug Scott, the conqueror of the southwest face of Everest, who has scaled over 20 unclimbed high peaks and who revolutionalised how all high mountains are climbed. Mr. Scott joins us for a special reception, with drinks and canapes and lecture, as part of the 10th Anniversary celebrations of the Hong Kong branch of the Royal Geographical Society. Mr. Scott is lecturing on the highlights of his 50 year climbing career. Mr. Scott began climbing at the age of 12 and visited the Alps at the age of 17 and has climbed in all the world's mountain ranges and in all the continents since. Doug Scott has made 45 expeditions to the high mountains of Asia. He has reached the summit of over 40 peaks, of which half were first ascents, and all were climbed by new routes or for the first time in Alpine Style. Mr. Scott has reached the highest peaks on all seven continents, "the Seven Summits", amazingly pioneering new routes on most of the climbs. Mr. Scott is also a distinguished rock climber with first rock climbing ascents from Yosemite to Wadi Rum in Jordan. In autumn 1975, Mr. Scott on Sir Chris Bonington's South West Face Expedition, became the first British climber to reach the summit of Everest and made the first ascent of the southwest route. Mr. Scott's lecture covers this and other climbing experiences including first ascents and explorations of remote regions including first ascents on Kohibandaka, Hindu Kush, Afghanistan, Shishapangma South West Face, Tibet, Lobsang SpireBroad Peak, K2, Pakistan and Nanga ParbatMazeno Ridge, Pakistan. Apart from his climb up the South West Face of Everest he has made all his climbs in lightweight or Alpine Style, without the use of artificial oxygen. This pioneering technique changed highaltitude climbing forever, with all great climbers following. This included making the first ascent of Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world, from the North West in light weight style and without oxygen, the first big mountain to be climbed with such minimal support, and the first ascent of the east pillar of Shivling after a 13 day, Alpine style push through two major storms. Mr. Scott's lecture also covers his more amazing feats including surviving the breaking of two legs near the summit of the Ogre (24,000 ft) and the 8 day descent to base camp and his legendary bivouac for the night, without oxygen, near the summit of Everest at 28,700 feet, making the world's highest camp site. Mr. Scott's lecture is illustrated using slides from his highly acclaimed personal collection. His photographs have appeared in almost all outdoor and mountaineering publications. More of his photographs have been on the front cover of mountain books than those of any other photographer or climber. Doug Scott is President of the Alpine Club, the world's premier climbing association and has been President of many other climbing clubs. He holds numerous awards and honorary degrees. Mr. Scott is the author of several books and articles, including Quest to the World's Greater Ranges. He was made a CBE in 1994. In 1999 he received the Royal Geographical Society Patron's Gold Medal from Queen Elizabeth II. Members and their guests are most welcome to attend this lecture, which is $100 for Members and HK$150 for others. This includes a free drink with snacks and canapes at the Reception prior to the lecture.